dog training methods

When we first brought our dog Max home as a puppy (10 years ago, wow) I was appalled at the idea of crate training. As a new puppy parent, I thought it was “cruel and unusual punishment”. I gradually learned more about how the training HELPS the puppy and am happy to try to calm new pet parents by sharing that here. Although it does seem cruel to put your adorable puppy in a crate, be open to the fact that your dog will learn to feel safe and comfortable in the crate as it becomes “his space”. Additionally, and probably more importantly, your puppy will start to learn to hold his urge to urinate and poop because of an innate instinct to NOT pee/poop in their space where they sleep. This is HUGE and is why crate training is very popular as a dog training method to house train puppies. Basic Steps to Crate Training

• Select a Crate – Crates are made of different materials and come in different sizes. The most common is the thin wire “birdcage” style. Many people have success with this but you may want to consider a dog separation anxiety crate if your dog has strong separation anxiety issues and may injure his paw or teeth trying to get through the wire bars. There are also plastic and soft sided crates which are generally lighter and may be better for traveling but are less durable and are easily worn or torn by scratching and biting.
• Size Matters – This is very important. The crate should be large enough to allow your puppy or dog to lay down comfortably but not large enough so that they have an extra area of floor space on which they can pee or poop so that their space for sleeping stays nice and clean. Crate training works to house train or potty train your dog by teaching them to hold their bladder and intestinal urges because they don’t want to soil the place where they sleep. Some crates are “built for the growth of your dog” so that, although the overall size is large to accommodate a bigger dog, you are able to partition off a portion of the crate while your dog is small.
• Make Sure the Crate is a Positive Experience – You want your dog to associate positive feelings and experiences with his crate. The ultimate goal is for your dog to see the crate as his “safe sanctuary” … a “den” where he feels protected and can relax. When that happens you will be able to leave him in the crate for short periods of time while running errands or driving to visit friends or destinations. To achieve this goal, put soft blankets, toys and treats in the crate. Never force your dog to go in the crate. Allow him to explore it and wander in on his own and reward him for that.
• Condition your Dog to be Alone in Crate – After your dog is comfortable going in and out of the crate, start seeing how he does with the door closed. Avoid opening the door if he howls, barks or cries. You do not want him to learn that he can get out by barking/howling. Rather, work with him to relax and calm down. Be calm yourself, maybe lay down on the floor or sit quietly. You may want to avoid eye contact. Just be still and calm and hopefully your dog will mirror your behavior. As soon as your dog is calm and quiet in the crate, reward him with a treat and see if he may want to come out. Gradually build on the length of time he will stay calm in the crate. Eventually, get to a point so that you can leave the room for a few minutes without your dog panicking and barking. This is a “start small and build on small successes” process. Ultimately, you want to get to a point at which you can leave your dog in the crate while you are out of sight for more than 30 minutes.
• House Trained and Flexibility for You – Once your dog is comfortable in the crate alone for an hour or more, you will have flexibility to run an errand or do house chores or bring him in the car in the crate. He will also likely be well on his way to having learned how to control his urges to pee and poop so that combined with frequent walks outside he will be on a successful path to being potty trained

As humans and members of our common society, we know that having young babies and toddlers interact with other children and adults teaches them what to expect from others. They develop a healthy understanding of how other people communicate and engage in groups. This same concept and pattern can be applied to puppies and dogs. Socialization training is simply the specific act of slowly and deliberately introducing your puppy or dog to other dogs and people so that they slowly gain trust in others and a sense of security when connected to others. As with most things, it’s best to start small and take “baby steps”. Do not try to put your puppy in a room with 15 new dogs, expecting him to be “Mr. Social”. Instead, set your puppy up to succeed by starting small and introducing him to 1 new puppy. It will likely help to do this in a neutral environment, not your puppies home. A park is a good place. This way neither dog feels that their “turf” is being invaded. A dog of a similar size to your dog is also good so that they feel more comfortable. After you have introduced your dog to other dogs of a similar size in neutral settings, gradually work your way up to 2 or 3 dogs and larger dogs. Be sure to be quick to remove your dog from a situation in which he obviously feels threatened or stressed. Also be sure to reward him immediately when he behaves and interacts well with other dogs ! Taking your dog for a walk will be one of the most common activities you do with your dog. It may seem that walking a dog on a leash is a very simple task. It can be if you are very fortunate to have a cooperative dog or if you take the time to leash train your puppy correctly : )

• Create Positive Association with Leash – Before attaching a leash to your dog, allow your dog to become comfortable with the leash. Simply place the leash near your dog as he’s resting or eating. Do not allow him to chew it. This is the first basic step in letting him see the leash as a harmless object. Your dog should not fear the leash or see it as a threat.
• Short, Indoor Sessions – Before going outdoors, start with some short sessions inside during which you attach the leash to your dog but allow him to roam freely around the room. Do not hold the leash. Allow your dog to get a feel for how the leash pulls slightly due to it’s weight as he drags it. The goal is to have your dog get a sense of how the leash feels while still not thinking it is something to fear nor some type of punishment.
• Pavlov’s Dog (conditioning for desired action) – Select something that is a recognizable sound for your puppy. It could be a clicker or a short word you say. With the puppy wearing the leash but roaming freely in a room, make the noise and offer a doggie treat. Continue the pattern of noise and then providing a treat as your puppy comes close to you. The goal here is to condition your puppy to come when you make the sound. Gradual conditioning is one of the most effective dog training methods.
• Leash Walking Indoors – The final step before going outdoors. This is the first time you hold the leash. Walk slowly around a room and have your dog walk with you. If he starts to veer away from you or pull on the leash, stand still and make the sound from the previous step. When he comes toward you, reward him with a treat. Do not tug on the leash to try to get your dog to come closer to you use the sound and reward pattern. Repeat this step in short sessions over numerous days until your puppy will walk around the room while staying close to you and not tugging on the leash.
• Heading Outdoors – After completing the above steps, you’re ready to bring your puppy outdoors on a leash and see if he walks closely with you. He will be tempted by many distractions … “Squirrel !” Have patience. Use short sessions with the goal of having him walk with you without tugging. If he does tug, stand still, make the sound that conditioned him to know he will get a treat and then give him a treat when he comes to you. Have patience. You will likely need a few outdoor sessions before your dog settles in to a behavior of walking alongside you